A guide to visiting Nardò in Puglia – a true Italian gem
At Further Afield we love finding places that are off the beaten track, places to discover and feel like you’re a pioneer. Nardò in Puglia, Italy, is one of those discoveries and with great places to stay forming part of the Further Afield collection we feel it’s time to share it with you, so find out about:
How to get to Nardò
Things to do in and around Nardò
Where to stay in Nardò
Insider tips about Nardò
Where to eat in and around Nardò
Where is Nardò?
Salento, Puglia, is the heel of the boot at the very tip of the Italian peninsula, and is where you’ll find simplicity at its finest. Unbothered by tourists, it has the cleanest water and the most delicious food with people who are unconditionally warm and welcoming – welcoming to the gay community too, with an annual Pride festival becoming increasingly popular.
What is Salento like?
The region is peppered with small, slow paced villages and stunning towns and cities; from the Baroque city of Lecce, known as the Florence of the South, to the most southern point of Santa Maria di Leuca, lapped by the sea, to the inland Grottaglie, with its vineyards and ceramics. The beaches and nature reserves also give it a rugged and earthy feel off the beaten track. The landscape is stunning – deep blue seas and centuries of history that are isolated from the 21st century.
In a little-known corner of Salento is Nardò, a town steeped with Baroque history; beautiful streets and alleyways and stunning historic buildings.
How to get to Nardò
Fly to either Bari or Brindisi and grab a car from there – or a train or bus from Lecce to Nardò, but a car will always provide that added flexibility to visit the region’s highlights.
What to do in Nardò once you get there
Like much of Salento, Nardò is a gourmet heaven and there are few tourists, wild beaches, clear seas and acre upon acre of olive trees. Italians come for sun, sea and incredible food, fished from nearby waters. It’s also great for cycling, peaceful walks and picnics in the protected pine forest of Porto Selvaggio.
Where to stay in Nardò
Nardòsalento Boutique Apartments are owned by Vincent, a collection of stunning boutique apartments and houses in the heart of Nardò’s old town.
Another architectural gem is lovely LOFT2A which is owned by Karen and Martin which sleeps 4 across two floors and has the crazy and beautiful “nest” where you can kick back with a book and soak up the cool and chilled out vibe!
Living like a local in Nardò
Who better to talk to about how best to enjoy this town than our two experts? Vincent and Martin gave us their insights into what’s so unique about this hidden corner of Italy.
What brought you to Nardò?
Martin: Following a previous renovation in Umbria, when my parents discovered my New Yorker wife Karen and I were going to buy a house to be restored in the historical center of Nardò their comment was “Hooray, on to the next pile of rubble”. In 1985 I came to Nardò and found such deep friendships that I would spend at least six weeks a year in the area. Back then Nardò seemed to me the most exotic place I had ever seen. The Salento never left my heart – and gradually it conquered Karen’s as well. The”pile of rubble” became our first house here and we used it for holidays. But gradually our connection to Nardò deepened to a point where we realised that we wanted to live here part time and become part of it.
Vincent: As a Belgian born in Brussels, with strong ties to Italy for decades, I first came on holiday to Salento back in 2009. A friend, who had been exploring Puglia for years, introduced me to the charming town of Nardò. From the moment I arrived, I felt an instant connection—it was love at first sight! Nardò is uncommon – it has a special vibe, hasn’t been overwhelmed by tourist shops and has developed very gently and authentically. I was particularly captivated when I discovered a stunning 17th-century palazzo with beautiful vaulted ceilings and views overlooking the old town, as well as other unique properties only steps away from the main baroque piazza. I was drawn to their particular architectural features, ancient citrus gardens, inviting courtyards, and charming terraces.
I embraced the opportunity to renovate these houses with local architects, pouring my passion into creating beautiful interiors.
More recently, I embarked on an exciting venture to transform an antique palazzo into a 16 bedrooms boutique hotel, Palazzo Tafuri, located in the heart of Nardò. This challenging project featuring a restaurant, 2 bars and a Spa has resulted in a stylish and authentic boutique hotel that has been well-received by guests since it opened in August 2022.
Many travellers are familiar with Tuscany and Umbria or the Amalfi Coast. Puglia and Salento are less widely known – what makes them so great?
Vincent: Salento is a very authentic place less affected by tourism, a beautiful piece of land circumvented by the sea. Depending upon which way the wind blows, one can take a dip in the Adriatic or the Ionian Seas. The locals are very open-minded, helpful and kind; the healthy, traditional cuisine and beautiful wines all add to a unique experience making it very difficult to leave. Lecce, as well as smaller cities in the Salento region have a myriad of local cultural events, exhibitions, music and film festivals. And Salento has its own Pride event each year.
Martin: The Salento peninsula is not “pretty” or “gentle”, no rolling hills like in Tuscany or Umbria. It is sometimes rough and rugged, but always mysteriously powerful. Nardò was founded about 3,000 years ago and has seen it all: Messapians, Grecians, Arabs, Turks, Normans, Spaniards, French, Venitians, it has been a quirky mixture of cultures for centuries. That is tangible in the people, the food, the local dialect, the music, the dance and the architecture. Tourism has only slowly begun to discover this area and what seemed Nardò’s disadvantage – the fact that it is 5 km from the sea – turns out to be its blessing. It has not the allure to mass tourism like towns directly on the beach. There has developed a quirky comunity of foreigners especially in the centro storico, but it mingles with the local people. I always enjoy observing how for example a sophisticated gay couple from London or Milan interacts with the people rooted in their traditions. I love the level of flexibility and curiosity and laisser faire.
Is Nardò a year round destination?
Martin: Spring – which by my German standards begins in mild January – is a constant explosion with its climax between March and April when poppies and chrysanthemum fields make you dizzy. In May and June the fields turn yellow and the beaches belong to you almost alone, it is fantastic. The summer, which lasts into late September is the perfect time for the loversof nighlife, outdoor parties and concerts. October through December are our favourite time. The weather is mild, yes, it rains frequently, beach walks are meditative, the restaurants overflow with fish and kindness. Those are the times when you enjoy sightseeing, touring the endless treasures of Puglia without crowds.
Vincent: Each season has something special. Spring is wonderful with mild temperatures, giving you the chance to discover the area at any time of the day. Summer offers beautiful moments on terraces and at the seaside and when the temperature drops in the evening, friends stay up late chatting over a glass of Amaro del Capo, a Jefferson or a Mirto. A city tour might be a challenge when the sun beats, but you can cool off in the crystal blue sea nearby. Autumn is less crowded. The air is breathable, and the sea retains the summer heat. Winter can have one or two wet months, but a lunch on a terrace is possible, even in January.
Top tips when planning a trip to Nardò?
Vincent: There are many beautiful beaches in Salento. For beachgoers, your biggest decision is whether you want to experience a beach in one of the region’s stunning nature reserves like Porto Selvaggio. Tips for the nature reserves – wear closed toe shoes for walking down through the pine forest and across the rocky coves and pack a delicious picnic since as there are no services in the park. At about a 20 minute’s drive from Nardò there’s Punta della Suina at the south end of Baia Verde located just past Gallipoli, and northward of Nardò you can enjoy a whole stretch of sandy beaches at Torre Colimena, with flamingos observing you from the salt lake behind the dunes.
We also do enjoy an alternative to the natural beach experience. If you do prefer the comfort of a sunbed and umbrella, Litos is located, in the middle of the Porto Selvaggio natural reserve, my favourite area in Nardò, just a few kilometers away from Nardò’s old town. There you can reserve sun beds in advance online (on the front row) and there’s free parking. South from Gallipoli, Lido Por do Sol is highly regarded for its friendly and inclusive environment, it is a great spot to relax and socialize.
On the Adriatic side I go to Baia dei Turchi or Torre dell’Orso and down to the beaches from Torre Pali to Torre Vado towards the southern most point of the heel.
If you prefer a more active holiday there’s loads on offer, like cycling, yoga lessons, kite-surfing or boat trips and water sports. There are also botanical gardens and dozens of historic town centres to visit, coastal walks, organised bike trails, horse riding, great food, wine and olive oil tasting.
My favourite day trips include the town of Grottaglie (above) famed for its innumerable ceramic workshops. I also love to connect with the magic at the very end of this piece of land, at Santa Maria di Leuca, where the Adriatic and Ionian seas flirt together in a never ending belly dance. On your journey, make sure to stop at Presicce, considered one of the most beautiful little villages of Italy and therefore part of the “I Borghi più belli d’Italia” association. Then have a stop at Marina di San Gregorio for a coastal lunch, where you can enjoy tasty local food and magnificent views! Last but not least, Lecce, the capital of the homonymous province and the capital of baroque architecture, has theatres, shopping zones, restaurants, bars, the MUST museum, and nightlife until the early hours.
For enjoying the local festivals, pick up a copy of “QuiSalento” at the newsstand when you arrive, or visit them online. Whilst only written in Italian, it’s easy to pick out events scheduled during your visit. More specifically, Piano Summer is a great piano festival taking place in historical venues in Nardò and other towns in the area, that I give my support to since their very launch, as I also do for the Salento Wine Week, a new wine and culture pairing initiative by a group of young locals of Nardò. The Muse Salentine Festival in Alessano usually has a program that extends over several months and is yet another great summer event if you are a classical music lover.
Wine tours and tasting experiences The region boasts exquisite wines crafted from sun-kissed grapes that burst with flavor. I highly recommend indulging in a wine tasting at the wineries Cantine Bonsegna or Schola Sarmenti, both situated in Nardò. Make sure to visit during the day to explore and purchase some remarkable wines and olive oil.
Restaurant and food recommendations in Salento and Nardò
There’s a bakery that sells ‘frisella’. Grab a bag, stop at a farm stand for just picked tomatoes, you’ll appreciate it on your private rooftop terrace with a chilled rose. Oh, and finish it off with a perfect slice of Salento watermelon, bursting with flavour. But there is definitely more than having a rich aperitivo on your terrace.
Vincent: Food and wine in Puglia are simply heavenly, and I eager to share my tips for the area, so here are just a few:
For an exquisite dining evening in a beautiful antique Palazzo in the old town, we love Palazzo Tafuri’s restaurant (below) proposing creative and inventive dishes, while they have daily suggestions starting at €38, also take a look at Tafuri Restaurant’s à la carte menu.
For more traditional Salento fare, we recommend Antica Trattoria Salandra, tucked away on a side street near the Piazza Salandra. This tiny spot, which is also open for lunch, is a delight for experiencing the typical dishes of the Salento region.
Other places in Nardò where I love to go for the food, the atmosphere and the kindness of their owners: Hostaria Corte Santa Lucia has delicious local cuisine in a warm atmosphere. Il Girone dei Golosi is just steps from the main Piazza, Alessandra and Giuseppe will welcome you with mainly local traditional cuisine. And for vegetarians and vegans, Cavolfiore is a fantastic choice.
La Dispensa dei Raccomandati is an excellent fish restaurant where the food is as good as the restaurant’s name is long. At the Antica Macelleria Fai I definitely go for the al sangue Florentine steak. I’m never disappointed at Ristorante Art Nouveau in Santa Maria al Bagno (Nardò’s beach), with a breathtaking view over the Ionian sea.
For the best pizza in Nardò go to Le 3 Sorrelle at a few steps from the Castello Aragonese where they have a choice of Italian and Belgian beers, or La Torre Pizzeria on Via Duca degli Abruzzi, where apart from the choice of toppings you can choose the type of flour the pizza base is made with.
In Galatone, Gustavo Ristoro is a unique experience of revisited local recipes in a chic, family-style setting, all lovingly created by Carmela and Gigi. At Gustavo you don’t need to think about the food, they send out the dishes from the kitchen. Carmela and Gigi have also created Convitto in the brilliantly renovated stables of a sumptuous antique palazzo. Here they are dedicated to researching the oldest types of flour, of which the succulent pizza’s are made.
If I want to splash out a bit I go either to Felline (near Ugento) and sit at a table on the picturesque Piazza Caduti at Il Mulino di Alcantara eating the most luxurious food under a sky full of stars, or to L’Acchiatura in Racale where interior dining rooms are beautiful if the weather is inclement.
Martin: If you love cooking the choice of fish and seafood is wonderful. We rely on the local stores including supermarkets to buy it, but visiting the fish market in Gallipoli (above) in the morning is of particular fun. In Nardò you eat with the seasons. Little pick up trucks, called Ape (produced by the same factory as the legendary Vespa) wait along every road leading in and out of Nardò, offering a bountiful palette of fruit and vegetables, whatever and exclusively what is in season, at a fraction of the prices you are used to. Tasty food in season and 0’km – Nardò’s traditions are sometimes so old fashioned that they are ahead of the trend again. What we like the most when tired of cooking is driving to the shore in direction Sant Isidoro and have lunch at “Blu Mare”, a funky place with formica tables and paper napkins, reminding us of a truck stop, where you can eat every raw seafood you ever dreamt of at reasonable prices, sitting among locals.
Night life in Nardo
Vincent: Our best tip is to live the vibes of Piazza Salandra – it’s Nardò’s “living room”, being considered one of the most beautiful piazza’s in Salento. It comes alive each evening as locals socialise, partake in an aperitif at one of the cafes, or delight in a sweet gelato.Several bars cater to different tastes. La Bottiglieria, Cardinal and Caffè Parisiare popular spots known for their late-night openings, making them perfect for enjoying a drink after a day of exploring the town. Last but not least and the utmost authentic bar is definitely Circolo l’Azzardo, plunging you into the romantic charm of the Italy of Fellini. Have a chat with the adorable owner, Manu!
